![]() ![]() Incorporating pinning into the build for offset parts also results in a stronger final product than glue. Gap filling does not require supplementary glue, neither does working putty around a large surface or support pieces - for example a textured scenic base. Otherwise give it a wiggle after it's cured, and glue if necessary. The milliput did take in a lot of Linde A and it still got hard but no additional white in color, For me I am looking for a product to add that would make the milliput more white. Sculpt it right on, only if the attachment point is small then go for the glue. item 2 Superfine White 2-Part Self Hardening Putty Milliput Superfine White 2-Part Self Hardening Putty Milliput. I don't usually use glue to stick things to a model unless it needs it. ![]() Milliput doesn't want to be made into very thin sheets or ropes, and takes a softer touch when sculpting because it doesn't have much stiffness when uncured. Green stuff sticks better, especially fresh, but is more rubbery and harder to smooth into tiny cracks or seams. The putty is fairly odorless and washes off with soap and warm water. ![]() Upon mixing equal parts of both bars, a chemical reaction is initiated, which gradually hardens the. It is a two-part putty made up of two separate bars, one of which contains a hardener, and the other is a resin. It's water soluble initially when you first mix it which makes smoothing out the surface easier as you spend less time later sanding the putty level. Milliput is een epoxy putty dat gebruikt kan worden voor het bijwerken van modellen als het wegwerken van naden, restauraties of het modelleren van. Milliput putty is a versatile and popular epoxy putty used by modelers, sculptors, and DIY enthusiasts for various applications. For very thin parts or parts that get a lot of stress (weapons, horse tails, etc), I use GS with a metal armature for strength. Personally I use Milliput superfine to fill in large gaps. A hybrid favouring milliput is ideal for casting replacement parts, as the slight flexibility makes it close to HIPS plastic in feel and retaining good detail while avoiding too much fragility/brittleness. Green stuff is best where the part might be under a lot of flex and needs to not break, like pointy horns or tentacles. Milliput sculpts hard edges better, and smooths more easily. I use all three regularly green stuff, milliput, and hybrid mix of the two. Harbor Freight is a better deal, if you can get free shipping. After I mixed both the black and the while, I rolled them into balls and flattened them out. You use equal parts of the putty and hardener and mix them together until you get a uniform color. I've gotten away with multiple applications of thinned putty on metal, but am iffy about it.Įngraving pens are useful for getting rid of mold lines. I bought two colors of Milliput, one black one white. No kneading, so good for boardgame plastics. Sanding better makes it better for gap filling (although for small gaps I prefer 'Tamiya sprue goo'). Kirotheavenger wrote: Milliput cures harder and sands better. ![]()
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